Adding a FrSky BT Module
Last updated
Last updated
https://app.gitbook.com/o/-Md3r5nfSt9hl-HcRAzT/s/-Md5nSb70RWQSfl1nJPs/getting-started/wiring/option-1-bluetooth/adding-a-frsky-bt-moduleSome radios are shipped with a solder pad you can add one of the available Bluetooth modules such as the RadioMaster TX16S. This will allow you to wirelessly connect without resorting to Option 3. Purchase either the Bluetooth Trainer or the PARA Bluetooth module. I would recommend sticking with the PARA module as it's more recent and is more tested. You can find the links to purchase them on the previous page.
The Bluetooth module will be soldered on to the pads like this. Pretty simple, use a fine solder tip set to apx 300deg C. Align the board and solder one corner pin in place. Verify the placement and solder the other corner. Once you triple check the placement solder the remainder of the pins. The antenna should be off of side of the main board.
If your lucky enough to find one of these boards with an external antenna, tape it to the side of the case as far away from all metal objects as possible.
The new TX16S, called the Mark2 no longer has the solder pad available. Instead it was replaced with a 4 pin MX1.25 connector. You can still attach a Bluetooth module but the wiring isn't the same. The connector now has 5V on it not 3.3V. You have to get the 3.3V from another source. There is an available 3.3V on the USART3 connector to the left of the CPU. Note: This 3.3V connection cannot supply a lot of current. Both the PARA & CC2540 Bluetooth modules are low current and will work fine. Do not use a ESP module.
The RX and TX markings on the board are incorrectly labeled on the Mk2. They are swapped.
10µH chokes on each line to minimize high-frequency cross-talk between the radio and the Bluetooth module. For the power lines, best not to use smaller than 100mA capable versions, the chokes for data lines do not carry much current and can thus be rated for much less current
This is not 100% required but will help.
